Trace the patterns onto a card board piece (not corrugated, heavier than card stock).
If things get out of hand, you can cheat in some areas and then fix it with bondo later.īut, I highly recommend you use Wizard of Flight's fett plans. Test fit each tab and then keep the tabs as close to the folds as possible when gluing. I scored my lines with a zebra mechanical pencil, but yesterday I used a precision screwdriver (flat blade) and the results were good. Unfortunately I can't find that one at Lowe's anymore. It's a little messy, but the folds good better than most other methods. I used a DAP contact cement (low VOC) to glue the pieces together. I don't think it matters where on the line you cut, as long as you keep it consistent. I also used a metal ruler to keep the cuts as straight as possible. If you want to actually remove those edges, you need to navigate in 3d and erase them. Open your ‘Style’ settings and switch them off. I found having a constantly sharp knife worked best. Loos like you activated back lines (win shortcut: k). This technique is usually only used for organic models (like animals and people) which means that models like robots are still built by folding on the fold lines.I'm getting back into pep, been a long time since I've done it. By just gluing the glue tabs firmly in place, the paper will automatically curve/bend to form the right shape, giving a smoother appearance. This means that you do not fold the paper on all the fold lines, but only on those of the glue tabs and parts that should obviously have sharp edges. Also, be careful when using coloured markers - if the tip of a marker is in contact with the paper for too long, too much ink will be absorbed into the paper and the piece will be ruined.
Because it can be difficult to find a colour to match the piece and because this technique is so time-consuming, I usually only colour the edges of black pieces. This will hide the white lines that are caused by the thickness of the paper where the pieces meet. With this technique, coloured pencils or markers, that match the colours of the relevant pieces, are used to colour the edges of the paper after the pieces are cut out. Select the button with the picture of a paintbrush, third from the left in Pepakura Viewer 3 ("Color Flaps with Neighboring Faces") The colour overflow function can be turned on as follows: In stead of using this function, coloured pencils or markers can be used to colour the white part of the glue tab just next to the colour of the piece itself (also refer to edge colouring below). If the parts are very dark, however, turning this function on will make it difficult to see the real edges of the pieces when cutting them out. This is very useful since small white lines that could occur when cutting out or gluing the parts together will be eliminated. When this function is selected, a border of the colours of each piece will be created around it (including on the glue tabs). What is the colour overflow function in Pepakura Viewer?
#HOW TO DO PEPAKURA LINES WORK HOW TO#
If you are unsure about how to fold the paper, just do a mountain fold (which is more common than a valley fold) since this can easily be corrected later on. The dotted lines indicate a mountain fold, which means the paper should be.The dot dash lines indicate a valley fold, which means the paper should be.The most common meaning of the fold lines are as follows: For large models 160gsm (or more) should be used to ensure that the model is sturdy.ĭifferent templates sometimes use different fold lines. That's what I did for my entire foam suit. For smaller models 80gsm to 120gsm paper should work well, since it will make the smaller parts easier to assemble. Here's my personal view on modifying Pepakura files for foam, and still leaving the correct curves in, but removing extra cuts/eges etc where they don't need to be: XRobots - How to modify pepakura templates for foam, includes my Iron Man costume suit - YouTube. The thickness of the paper you should use depends mainly on the size of the model. The thickness / weight of paper is indicated in grams per square metre (gsm). It is also called pepakura, the Japanese word for papercraft. Papercraft differs from origami in the sense that the pieces of a papercraft template are cut out, folded where necessary and then glued together to create the model. Papercraft is the art of creating three dimensional models out of paper.
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